Seam Finish Cotehardie

The first would be to sew a seam using the correct seam allowance. I attached the wool layer to the canvas by laying the canvas down over the wool and folding the seam allowances of the wool over onto the wrong side of the canvas. So, the gore goes in first. When I cut this out, I left a wide allowance on the armholes and the top of the sleeve. To enclose the seam allowances between layers of fabric and lining arrange the layers as thus: lining right side up, lining right side down, fabric right side up, fabric right side down. Sew allowing for neckline, arm holes. Seam finishing is a very important part of the sewing process. Making a Mantle & Long Tailed Hood January 26, 2016 February 28, 2016 It's taken me a while to get this post out but I think i'm finally ready to get back into the swing of things with twice a week updates. In commenting on problems of terminology, Newton observes, "It is doubtful whether at any one time the exact differences between an aketon, a pourpoint, a doublet, a courtpiece, and a jupon were absolutely defined. Always put "right" sides of fabric together when. The pattern used was the same as for my previous cotehardie, adapted from the Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator. The apron is a good probability, it's all cut out and made of a thick lush teal wool from Pendleton, so I don't have to finish the seams. I'm thinking of something. basting the armhole before sewing make that seam easier to finish nicely. Anyway, now I have a pink cotehardie, and although it wasn't the purple that I wanted, it is a pretty garishly amazing colour and I got lots of compliments at festival. Lining adds a nice weight to the garment, or choose unlined for a lightweight dress. This morning's challenge was laying out a men's cotehardie on remnant wool. The finishing touch of this outfit is the fore cloth. This would be a. ⚜ Hose for the 14th century for a teenager, sewn on outgrowth, with a margin in the seams. I did not finish the seams on the hose, and that was no doubt the issue. These seams can be stress points and I prefer them stronger than the stitches I used for the folded edges mentioned above. RC017 - 14th Century Women's Kirtle or Cotehardie Pattern. Hi Ladies! Currently I'm not super set on a region. Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing. Tomorrow I have to finish off the seams and then do the eyelets, sleeves and hems. This means that if you click through and make a purchase from these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Finish all cut edges with narrow hems and oversew seams. This is a sneak peak at how it will look!. This would be a great dress for a medieval themed wedding as a bride or a bridemaid. With that done, I can finesse the final fit, finish the neckline, set the sleeves, do endless amounts of interior seam finishing, and equally endless amounts of hemming. This is for a custom made medieval dress. Then go back and zigzag next to the seam allowance and trim away any excess fabric. Feb 6, 2018- Explore biancabites's board "SCA Cotehardie Construction" on Pinterest. I keep looking at the curved front seam method of fitting a cotehardie on the Cotte Simple website and I think this pattern would be a good starting point for that fitting method. You can read about making the cotehardie here, and I also have a post about making the matching shoes and leggings, which can be read here. I then cut them out given each piece a 1/2 seam allowance. Depending on how much movement the wearer needs, the neckline and armhole can encroach onto the sleeve cap. Very slendarizing design for most body shapes. The addition of a waist seam will allow me to get a lot of added fullness in the skirt. Step 3: Wash and cut out linen. Description- Bias-bound seams are perhaps the most beautiful way to finish the edges of your seams. This smooth satin-weave fabric shimmers with your every movement. offered at a reduced price, as has been tried on. The all began square at the top and I just took them in more and more until the dress was fitted. See those numbers on your sewing plate? Those represent seam allowance amounts. This is for a custom made medieval dress. Processing the flax into fibres, weaving and finishing was primarily done in rural areas. At a medium weight of 5. an ebon sarcenet cotehardie paneled with silver-woven figury an indigo cendal gown with iridescent platinum-toned tracery a rose gold velveteen gown grazed with tiny bronze oak leaves a kelyn-hued silk gown caught by a collar of cloisonne tiles a tailored bliaut of shadowy grey and rolaren-hued bourde. Based on contemporary artwork, we have chosen several dist. Sew from bottom to top. That means its time for the grey kirtle dress diary! =D Outfit description: The kirtle is made of 100% linen, and it is entirely hand-stitched. Using a Burda pattern, I pinned and adjusted my way to a suitably fitted gown that seems to be working. One of the most versatile cladding systems available, whether it is for roofing or facade type applications. The verdict: mixed success - the pattern had to be altered a lot, and the very front where all the seams come together was messy, but I think it's worth using again, and making more. Using the unused lining from the blue cotehardie as a starting point, we divided the panels into two, cut it out of some leftover red linen-cotton for lining, and Helen refitted it. A running stitch was employed to fold the edges of each cut panel. Guide originally published in 1880, so it is describing the drafting of clothing of that period although the method will work on other styles as well. 1/2 hour, max!. ⇒トップ ⇒オシャレ目次 カタカナでオシャレシリーズ 日本語ー英語編. A basic knee length men's cotehardie with dagging at the bottom hem. I hand-sewed this cotehardie in 2004, after getting the wool from a vendor at an outdoor shopping center in Leicester, England while I was studying in London. April 8, 2007. Tippets: Using two pieces and right sides together, sew all the way around leaving space to turn piece. In the wooden box you see a faenor symbol, a marble symbol, a crystal-eyed silver dolphin symbol, a blown glass lily symbol, a black sphene widow symbol, an ivory dagger symbol, a honey beryl note symbol, a black dreamstone rose symbol, a bloomed amber rose symbol, a golden blazestar leaf symbol, a curved alum feather symbol, a smooth vaalin shield symbol, a sharp-edged silver star symbol, a. 11 thoughts on “ 1883 Summer Rose Tea Dress ” Sam Benton says: I attended a free class on making the “10-gore Cotehardie” for mid-Mideavil times, and took my butcher-paper pattern home and started looking thru my stash for enough fabric to make one. - If you pay attention to every detail we can offer you a high standard. I have been reading up on 15-16th century medieval Europe, including art and clothing, for some years now and haven't really been into 14th century for a while; I even sold of my Moy Bog gown and some other dresses. This dress was made for two events that were really close to each other: A ladies tea at my church that had a fashion show (where you see the above hilarious pictures with that speaker up in the corner), and a friend's wedding. In contrast, a modern pattern that is frequently used to get a similar look to the period cotehardie (the princess line pattern) uses 5. He'll finish the top and add point holes once he's decided how high up onto his body he wants the hosen to ride. The method of cutting out V-shaped or concave pieces in an edge; on the outside curve of a seam allowance of a garment so that the seam will lie flat. This means that if you click through and make a purchase from these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I’ll go with cote (for short) for the topmost layer and kirtle for the one beneath that. Fold about 14" of other side of seam allowance and press. Leave a fly opening in the front seam. April 8, 2007. I want to have one, but not make one. This started with buttons…. Finish these seams as well. This smooth satin-weave fabric shimmers with your every movement. Hem as desired. Then trim down the seam allowance and get rid of any marks that might bleed through to the other side. 15th century irish. Their tailored tops fell a little below the waist. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling. And even time period I'm open. I'm not clear on how to finish these seams. Finish this seam with a flat-feld or French seam. 5cm or 5/8″ from the raw edge. The upper of the foot part is also sewn on with linen thread, but I was running out of it, and wanting something left for the cotehardie, I decided to use wool from here. Turning a period-correctly narrow flat felled seam is no task for the impatient. Can you sew a straight line? It’s easy to get your seams all wonky if you sew very quickly. Lady Katrina of Bryn Maddoc showed my how to draft tha pattern, lay it out, and cut it. Cotehardie, pourpoint, jaqueta or jubn, all were worn over the shirt and the hose. Pin the corner so the edges of the square line up with right sides together, and sew a seam along or just inside that line. My issue is bust support. He'll finish the top and add point holes once he's decided how high up onto his body he wants the hosen to ride. In commenting on problems of terminology, Newton observes, "It is doubtful whether at any one time the exact differences between an aketon, a pourpoint, a doublet, a courtpiece, and a jupon were absolutely defined. RC017 - 14th Century Women's Kirtle or Cotehardie Pattern. I flat felled seams for added stability. This finish is fairly close to a serger seam and will eliminate most unraveling. Overdress B with low neckline. Sew together the side seams to the waist and the shoulders at a 1″ seam allowance. However, if its cheaper or simpler or more practical for me to make it another way (on machine, using cotton instead of wool, zipper for nursing access instead of a ton of hooks and eyes, or adding a waistband to regency dresses, etc. 9) Attach the facing, RST, to the bottom of the sleeve. You will be ready for the Renaissance fair or your SCA event in this beautiful gown. The first cotehardie for the Festival! March 18, 2013 / in 2012 Abbey Medieval Festival, Blog, Costuming, There's an amazing 50m of seams in the dress!. The wool hose probably won't have that same problem, but it's made me re-think going with the full sole instead to avoid the seam under the foot altogether. Match the cut edges and stitch the seam through all four layers. Cotehardie Patterning Posted on 19 November 2017 by saraitindall I have been asked a few times if I have a tutorial on how to pattern cotehardies and so a few weeks ago when I taught a class on patterning women's cotehardies for the Shire of Rúnviðarstaðr Una took some pictures throughout the day so that I could work on a walk through. This project was a huge learning experience for me, as I didn't know many stitch types at the time and the running stitch seams were very weak and prone to ripping. Giving it that extra touch by finishing the seams and hem with a catch stitch. Features: excellent quality soft wool, lined throughout with quality Irish linen; Hem, cuffs and neck finished by hand in a linen thread, inside (flatlined) seams finished by hand too,no machine stitching visible. The only thing (to my knowledge) that isn't period about it is that I used cotton thread rather than linen (I was out of linen thread, and don't care for working with it, anyways), and cotton instead of silk for the buttonholes. While this is by no means a correct, historical cotehardie pattern, it is a good start and you will come close. This traditional medieval design cotehardie in velvet would be perfect for your themed wedding, sca or larp event. I attached the wool layer to the canvas by laying the canvas down over the wool and folding the seam allowances of the wool over onto the wrong side of the canvas. 52 at our King’s and Queen’s Arts and Sciences and Bardic Champions in the Crown Province of Ostgardr. I've seen one or two people ask exactly where to cut the tape, though, so I decided I'd do a couple of sketches to show just how I do it. What remains is hemming the other three sides, finish closing off the waistband ties, and the decorative stitching on the smocked section. Rolled hems. Using the unused lining from the blue cotehardie as a starting point, we divided the panels into two, cut it out of some leftover red linen-cotton for lining, and Helen refitted it. Most US machines are in 1/8″ increments. In this case your medieval dress will be full hand sewn. Often, in my experience, dresses with contrasting gores appear when someone mistakenly didn't buy enough fabric to make a dress, went back to the shop, found the fabric was no longer on sale and so bought a different fabric to make up the length. Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing. I have a few little projects that I hope to finish up this week, then I will begin. By sewing from the hem, the dress seam will lay better. com BLOG: https://www. Get really busy and fail to make any more progress for a whole week. (2) pressing under the edge of the longer seam allowance and folding it over (3) hand-whipstitching that folded edge down to make a beautiful finish! Where the triangles were inserted (in each seam), one felled seam simply ran over the edge of the other and continued up the body. Cotehardies-art - 6/16/15 "Four Panel Cotehardies: History and Construction" by Lady Rosalie Langmod of Calontir. “I think this will look better,” he said, and took a steadying breath, before he undid the laces at his sides, then at his neck, so he could simply step out of his cotehardie, picking it up and placing it on top of the pellote. The pattern is a 7 panel cotehardie pattern. In period there was likely a supportive underdress or a supportive lining at the least to help prevent pulling on the main garment. I used three tablets. As the inspiration was taken the Norman dress from the Greenlandic excavation, which has been dated from that particular period. And even time period I'm open. Trim seam allowance in under arm of dress to 1/4" or finish as desired. Men wore a tunic, gown, or kirtle over the doublet (gipon or hip length buttoned jacket) or shirt. I originally did this because I was not quite sure which side would look best, or most period, so to avoid making that choice myself: enter flat-felled seams!. I have been reading up on 15-16th century medieval Europe, including art and clothing, for some years now and haven’t really been into 14th century for a while; I even sold of my Moy Bog gown and some other dresses. To finish/trim your medieval dress we can use two different standards. An accurate reproduction would have the yoke over the shoulders cut continuously with the main back body piece. The seams might be left open at the bottom in varying number, to form vents. Corp 1361 or 1391, depending on source; brass from Stoke Fleming, Devon, England (source: Muriel Clayton's Brass Rubbings [1391]), Through England on My Knees, by Betsey Lewis, and Brasses and Brass Rubbings by Clare. I admit to having a weakness for the robe a la francaise, or sack back gown. I did not finish the seams on the hose, and that was no doubt the issue. I lined the silk with plain cotton broadcloth (also red) that was basted to it around the edges so it's like the two fabrics were one layer when I sewed the seams. Overdress B with low neckline. I was working full-time during the day during that period, so my fingers were awfully sore from sewing for 8 hours, then coming home to sew some more! The last three days days before our trip I stayed up sewing until 3 am, and on the last day I pulled and all-nighter, just barely finishing the buttons before it was time to head to the airport. The technique I am about to describe allows you to underline a garment and finish the seams in one procedure -- this makes the most beautiful seam finish and is not much more work than simply underlining (less, if you are planning to hand baste the layers together). It takes an extra minute to line up the extra seam but it's worth it! Also, I'm happy to see the short sleeve back seam line up exactly with the long sleeve seam. 6 SEAM FINISHES WITHOUT A SERGER. Sew the facing to the button strips in the front. Medieval underdress/cotehardie sleeves help, please? - CLOTHING - I'm in the process of making a cotehardie and an underdress for it, and can not for the life of me find a sleeve tutorial for the underdress that. But I've started the buttonholes. I've used the sloper to make a linen cotehardie for this weekend. This smooth satin-weave fabric shimmers with your every movement. Most of the construction of my cotehardie went smoothly. Standing Seam metal cladding provides an aesthetically pleasing finish whilst avoiding the industrial finishes found in more recent standing seam systems. We can't do much about the bottom-stitching but we are obliged to finish those exposed seam allowances, both for strength (fraying edges are weak edges) and aesthetic appeal. These classic and authentic medieval dresses and gowns are timeless. 'The basis of the wardrobe was the cotte (German rock), a long sleeved shift, slightly blousing over the girdle and widening from the hips down to the seam. Often the more accurate, the prettier they are. In one of these medieval wedding dresses, you surely will. Corp 1361 or 1391, depending on source; brass from Stoke Fleming, Devon, England (source: Muriel Clayton's Brass Rubbings [1391]), Through England on My Knees, by Betsey Lewis, and Brasses and Brass Rubbings by Clare. Agnes's Cotehardie - France, 1391 Page 1 St. Stefan's Florilegium Cotehardies-art. Since there was no fabric even to turn the hemline, I finished it by weaving a tablet woven braid to hemline. 'The basis of the wardrobe was the cotte (German rock), a long sleeved shift, slightly blousing over the girdle and widening from the hips down to the seam. The sleeve construction changed from a rectangle with the seam under the sleeve, with two gussets for width, into a more fitted sleeve with a sleeve cap. / Using Your Duct Tape Sloper to Modify Flat Pattern Pieces (Part 2/2 The seam allowances are all ½ inch and I’m aiming for 2 inches of ease in the bust and hips. The cotton turned out to become the kirtle (see above) and the cotehardie is stitched together. We're all most likely familiar with the tape pattern method of furring. Buttons and lacing allowed for an even closer fit. I've probably got enough garb for the whole family for one weekend, and we'll be th. The exception is the seam up the back of the sleeve—in that case, the seam allowance is graded, and felled in one direction (towards the top), and I turned the linen (which was on top of the layers) and felled it separately. Even though there's very little about the rococo period that I like (most of it's just too much for me. Anyone up for a garb-along? SCA, Rennie, LARP, costume geeks? - CLOTHING - So, Lilies War in Calontir is about a month away. Using a Burda pattern, I pinned and adjusted my way to a suitably fitted gown that seems to be working. (seam finishing method from "Archaeological Sewing") Se mer. Although boasting not much else, Williamston is home to All About Fabrics, the wholesale fabric division of Phoenix of Anderson, a textile company that has been around since the early 1900s. I am not sure whether to use armhole or shoulder princess seams. A variety of closures and neckline options are also included. Baste the seam open , then you can go on to finish the seam. sew the collar shoulder seams on the velvet and the self-fabric facing; right sides together, sew the outer seam on the collar, clip curves; From cutting to this point was about 3. Men wore a tunic, gown, or kirtle over the doublet (gipon or hip length buttoned jacket) or shirt. If this seam finish is applied on your home sewn garment it will look like it is manufactured rather than handmade. I took it in about six inches at the waist, pulled the sleeves out partway and took them in, took in the bust at the side seams… Whew. You can read about making the cotehardie here, and I also have a post about making the matching shoes and leggings, which can be read here. At a medium weight of 5. Then go back and zigzag next to the seam allowance and trim away any excess fabric. This morning's challenge was laying out a men's cotehardie on remnant wool. This is for a custom made medieval dress. Would also be great for any medieval, SCA or LARP historical reenactments. Viking Garb Class handout - great 28 page handout that gives documentation and history of all types of viking garb, includes information about seams, seam finishes, types of cloth, colors of cloth and how those colors were dyed, as well as patterns and instructions!. Realise that in the weeks you spent plucking up the courage, you forgot how you were lining it and did it wrong. After every seam is sewn, I iron the seam open, and then turn down the edges and sew them. You made need to clip or notch it around the heel. Very slendarizing design for most body shapes. include extra fabric along the outer seam of the forearm, or line them and add a “tab” to put the buttons on. The wool hose probably won't have that same problem, but it's made me re-think going with the full sole instead to avoid the seam under the foot altogether. 14th Century Cotehardie with Tippets I seem to spend the vast majority of my time working on projects that, while amazing, are very ornate, heavy, and hot. All the seams on this one are flat-felled so that I can wear it inside out if I want to. The obvious thing to do was try and break each swatch down into blocks of 4" x 4", but since they end up being slightly less than that, I decided to do a bit of fussy cutting to make 2 slightly larger blocks using the unprinted white space to remain attached in the seam allowance. 6 SEAM FINISHES WITHOUT A SERGER. I know more than you're average cat when it comes to the history of dress and even when I'm stumped my obsession with books leads me to my shelf. For example, think of a man's dress shirt. Lady Katrina of Bryn Maddoc showed my how to draft tha pattern, lay it out, and cut it. 14th century fashionable cotehardie ideal for 1340-1400. Miranda The Tempest Medieval Gown Recently completed century medieval gown. I already have my sleeve piece cut out, all nice and stripey-like. I then trimmed the rest of the wide seam allowance. Seam finishing is a very important part of the sewing process. Not only do I not have a costume, I don't have an IDEA for a costume. Ladies Linen Kirtles CUSTOMIZE YOUR KIRTLE! Our simple, early 15th Century kirtles are constructed from 100% natural linen hand dyed to your choice of colour from our Dylon colour selection. The cross-back seam going all the way across is a difference from the original find. Giving it that extra touch by finishing the seams and hem with a catch stitch. As boxes are slowly being put away, the pile of unfinished projects grows. This project was a huge learning experience for me, as I didn't know many stitch types at the time and the running stitch seams were very weak and prone to ripping. I flat felled seams for added stability. An accurate reproduction would have the yoke over the shoulders cut continuously with the main back body piece. This means that if you click through and make a purchase from these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. To enclose the seam allowances between layers of fabric and lining arrange the layers as thus: lining right side up, lining right side down, fabric right side up, fabric right side down. I finally finished my 14th century belt and took some photos of it with my new grey kirtle. Posts about Cotehardie written by Linda at Handcrafted History. Trim seam allowance in under arm of dress to 1/4" or finish as desired. It was made to fit the torso and arms, usually with a row of buttons down the front as well as down each fitted sleeve from the elbow to the wrist. This dress was made for two events that were really close to each other: A ladies tea at my church that had a fashion show (where you see the above hilarious pictures with that speaker up in the corner), and a friend's wedding. The cross-back seam going all the way across is a difference from the original find. RC017 - 14th Century Women's Kirtle or Cotehardie Pattern. And even time period I'm open. It adds a lot of strength to the seams, especially children’s clothing. Next I just need to attach the skirt to the bodice and the sleeves. I lined the silk with plain cotton broadcloth (also red) that was basted to it around the edges so it's like the two fabrics were one layer when I sewed the seams. Flat-felled seams are sewn right sides together, one seam allowance trimmed to about 1/4", and the other seam allowance wrapped around the narrow one and top-stitched into the garment. The sole was sewn using another kind of seam. - The average standard means machine sewn but all visible seams on your medieval woman costume are hand made. Sew from bottom to top. April 8, 2007. precede the cotehardie in fashion, but are not necessarily cotes. Your sleeves are now ready to be sewn shut. If the seam will get much wear or is not completely hidden between layers of fabric, you really should go back and &… Make your sewing better with one of these seam finishes! Learn how to finish a seam 9 different ways to make your handmade clothing look professional! Your clothing will last longer and look good inside and outside. Description- Bias-bound seams are perhaps the most beautiful way to finish the edges of your seams. Almost finished the cotehardie, just sleeve hems and hand made, embroidered buttons to finish. 7) Trim the seam allowances if you need to (I like them to be 1/3 to 1/2 inch wide). - Documentation from Italy, Tacuinum Sanitatus. Dress and Cloak Fitting Made Easy Instructions on drafting patterns. In the wooden box you see a faenor symbol, a marble symbol, a crystal-eyed silver dolphin symbol, a blown glass lily symbol, a black sphene widow symbol, an ivory dagger symbol, a honey beryl note symbol, a black dreamstone rose symbol, a bloomed amber rose symbol, a golden blazestar leaf symbol, a curved alum feather symbol, a smooth vaalin shield symbol, a sharp-edged silver star symbol, a. I love the blind hem stitch. Finish all cut edges with narrow hems and oversew seams. Men wore a tunic, gown, or kirtle over the doublet (gipon or hip length buttoned jacket) or shirt. Match the cut edges and stitch the seam through all four layers. 14th Century Cotehardie - Drafting the Pattern This post may contain affiliate links. See those numbers on your sewing plate? Those represent seam allowance amounts. This means that if you click through and make a purchase from these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This morning's challenge was laying out a men's cotehardie on remnant wool. I want to have one, but not make one. Based on contemporary artwork, we have chosen several dist. Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out. In the earlier decades, the sleeves were so tight that every movement of the arm drew the cotte into a sunburst of pleats at the inset of the sleaves. Whew! So today I did get most of the things on my To Do List done, although I don't have photos for all of them and will need to catch you up tomorrow or Thursday with them. The seam allowance is folded back and top stitched down. Stefan's Florilegium Cotehardies-art. A running stitch was employed to fold the edges of each cut panel. I really like the outcome, it's both pretty in an understated way and also comfy. The cotton turned out to become the kirtle (see above) and the cotehardie is stitched together. And i'm starting by blogging about the cloak/capelet/mantle which is the final piece in my Cotehardie ensemble. I really like the way it looks. But, alas, it's autumn, and I need something warm to wear to College War (you should go to College War!). I was working full-time during the day during that period, so my fingers were awfully sore from sewing for 8 hours, then coming home to sew some more! The last three days days before our trip I stayed up sewing until 3 am, and on the last day I pulled and all-nighter, just barely finishing the buttons before it was time to head to the airport. Rolled hems. The technique I am about to describe allows you to underline a garment and finish the seams in one procedure -- this makes the most beautiful seam finish and is not much more work than simply underlining (less, if you are planning to hand baste the layers together). HOW: This is not as difficult as it may sound – see below. She also taught me how to make sleeves! I learened a ton from her and can't thank her enough. It is shaped through the torso by way of curved side seams, and there is evidence for curved center-front and center-back seams as well. Scallops, crosses and points that would decorate the edge of the fabric and functionally would finish the edges. With its smooth look and tighter weave, this linen is neither sheer or heavy, but just the right in-between weight you will need…. So I have to take the snood off and finish the seams. Giving it that extra touch by finishing the seams and hem with a catch stitch. The sole was sewn using another kind of seam. That project was entered it into the GW A&S exhibition as a “work in progress”. I'd like to have it finished by spring so I can go to a Renn Faire sometime before I die. I couple of weekends ago, I attended my first SCA event: Highland War. Sew the facing to the button strips in the front. Once the main pieces of the dress were sewn together it was time to start the lengthy process of hand finishing. What remains is hemming the other three sides, finish closing off the waistband ties, and the decorative stitching on the smocked section. Turn the bottom lining and the top fabric away from the middle layers and press. I had a mad dash Friday night to try to get everything ready for the event on Saturday, but my German-ish outfit was completed and looked awesome!. Another cotehardie with interesting embellishment. The dress is also serged, but I hand sewed the seams down, so the whole thing gives and impression of being hand done. Scott's tailed hosen are assembled and the visible machine stitching has been hidden by flat-felling and hand finishing the seam. I took a little more care in sewing this one together, and actually used my iron. It has a hand-sewn hem and neckline. 1/2 hour, max!. You will be ready for the Renaissance fair or your SCA event in this beautiful gown. P312 Baby Infant Toddler Pull Over Animal Costume Sewing Pattern Size 1/2 to 4T Hippo Lion Horse Bear, Pattern and Instructions By McCalls. Scott's tailed hosen are assembled and the visible machine stitching has been hidden by flat-felling and hand finishing the seam. I'm thinking of something. I have been reading up on 15-16th century medieval Europe, including art and clothing, for some years now and haven’t really been into 14th century for a while; I even sold of my Moy Bog gown and some other dresses. The beautiful mustard/gold linen needed just the right amount of the other elements to make it pop. Read unlimited* books and audiobooks on the web, iPad, iPhone and Android. This time I'm planning to do a cotehardie (cote, kirtle, gothic fitted gown, gothic fitted dress, whatever you want to call it) with a waist seam. The seam allowance is folded back and top stitched down. Most US machines are in 1/8″ increments. Rolled hems. 9) Attach the facing, RST, to the bottom of the sleeve. Seam finishing is a very important part of the sewing process. You made need to clip or notch it around the heel. The gown is purple with a black sheen and made of synthetic fabric. And i’m starting by blogging about the cloak/capelet/mantle which is the final piece in my Cotehardie ensemble. Cotehardie, 2013 It began with a second hand bargain, two large pieces on dark blue slightly napped material which distantly resembled wool but on a closer look turned out to be cotton. The photo above does not have any seam allowance on the armhole curves, since I expected that the exact shape and position of those seams will require some tweaking at fitting. I didn't want to deal with belt loops, so I did a fine rolled hem to add stiffness and some strength, then folded that over once to form a 1/4" tube, made some whipcord out of linen tablet weaving warp I had lying around, and threaded that through as a drawstring. All seams (except the seam to have lacing) are to have 1/2" seam allowances. Anyone up for a garb-along? SCA, Rennie, LARP, costume geeks? - CLOTHING - So, Lilies War in Calontir is about a month away. How to finish seams on a Serger. Unless your garment is fully lined, it’s important to finish the seam allowances so the raw edges don’t fray. com BLOG: https://www. It is being worn with off-white tights (found in our men's changing room) and a wool plaid. Scholastica, February 10, A. 1370s Blue Cottehardie: Another major project--a completely handsewn cotehardie, using period methods, patterning, and construction. Eowyn White Wool Dress SLEEVES Planning part 2 I decided to make the dress unlined (since the cotton material is fairly heavy), and princess seamed. The other problem with this argument is that it also relies largely upon modern costumiers' inexperience with creating medieval garments. The Cotehardie, or Eight-Gore Dress, is a favorite because it is both form-fitting and very full. Under: white linen shift and blue linen gown cotehardie/ kirtle; top: sideless blue woollen surcoat with embroidered trim (beads, not period). A serger encloses the edge of the fabric inside a thread casing. It is tempting to not pin, but if you don't pin, you'll get wiggly seams. Often the more accurate, the prettier they are. I hope to have this project done by wednesday or thursday so that I can finish packing and clean house before we leave on Sunday. A basic knee length men's cotehardie with dagging at the bottom hem. Finish by drawing or pinning the appropriate low, wide neckline. I really like the way it looks. Well actually he asks me to sew plenty of things for him, but this one I actually did. For my non-SCA readers, that's a fairly early-period (for me) dress with princess-like seams that hugs the body and can be very flattering to the shape. The obvious thing to do was try and break each swatch down into blocks of 4" x 4", but since they end up being slightly less than that, I decided to do a bit of fussy cutting to make 2 slightly larger blocks using the unprinted white space to remain attached in the seam allowance. Try some of these popular methods to finish seams without a serger. This traditional medieval design cotehardie in velvet would be perfect for your themed wedding, sca or larp event. The seams were sewn from the right side with linen thread in small, invisible stitches. See more ideas about Medieval costume, Historical clothing and Medieval dress. Sew Buttonholes and Buttons to dress. You'll notice that my front piece is cut in half- that's because this is going to be a hoodie with a zipper in front. With that done, I can finesse the final fit, finish the neckline, set the sleeves, do endless amounts of interior seam finishing, and equally endless amounts of hemming. Then go back and zigzag next to the seam allowance and trim away any excess fabric. Although boasting not much else, Williamston is home to All About Fabrics, the wholesale fabric division of Phoenix of Anderson, a textile company that has been around since the early 1900s.